Elio Perrone’s ‘Tasmorcan’ is one of my favorite go-to wines for every day. It’s straightforward, easy to drink but has enough complexity going on to hold your interest.
Asti is a DOCG subregion in the famed Piemonte located on the Italian panhandle east of Turin. The area is really known for the production of still and sparkling Moscato and, to a lesser degree, other reds like Dolcetto and Freisa—but we aren’t talking about those right now. One wine at a time. Barbera from Asti tend to be lighter in style, drink now kind of wines whereas Barbera from Alba are generally deemed to be more age-worthy.
Stefano Perrone is a rock star. Formerly a racecar driver, he’s a fifth generation winemaker having taken over the family estate in 1989 and has built a formidable reputation as a winemaker ever since. Historically, the Perrone vineyard’s main focus has been the production of exceptional Moscato, but in the 1990s Stefano purchased two vineyards in Asti with very old Barbera vines that are now producing some amazing wines. The properties are all located on the hillsides of Asti at 1200 feet above sea level in ideal growing conditions.
The ‘Tasmorcan’ is produced from new Barbera vines planted alongside the old vines in the Mongovone vineyard.This is a steep, south-facing vineyard with clay and limestone soils. 20% of the wine is aged for four months in French oak while the rest is aged in large botti. The name “Tasmorcan” comes from the name of a badger with the snout of a dog which you can see denoted in the small graphic on the label.
Ok, Let’s Drink It
I ordered this at Stoked Pizza in Brookline when I stopped for dinner on my way home. It pairs really well with their incredible pizza as it’s got enough flavor and structure to stand up to the tomato and cheese but doesn’t upstage it. (If you haven’t check out Stoked yet, go there right now. True wood-fired pizza that cooks in about 3 minutes. Plus the people are cool.)
Beautiful deep ruby hues, all stewed raspberry and plum aromas, the wine is definitely fruit forward. Pomegranate with some graphic and anise on the palate it finishes with cranberry and spice. The wine shows a pleasant, vibrant acidity which keeps you drinking it. It’s a gem of a wine.
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