Not that you can’t just enjoy drinking it, but Il Civettaio’s Poggio al Commessario is a great choice if you are looking for a good main course pairing for Italian or Middle Eastern food.
Maremma is a subregion of Tuscany that stretches along the coastline south of Livorno. Originally made famous by Sassicaia in the 70s and then later Ornelaia, the region was only elevated to DOC status in 2011. It has a warmer climate with plenty of sunshine which is a powerful ripening engine. Like Chianti, Sangiovese is the main grape grown here along with permitted international varieties.
Civettaio is what happened when Gregorio Dell’Adami de Tarczal decided to turn his passion for wine into a life of winemaking. Gregorio was born in Italy but comes from a long line of Hungarian Tokaji producers. After a successful business career, Gregorio had a vision to make fine organic wines and in 1998, purchased Civettaio. Civettaio means “where the owls are” and was renovated to function with the utmost regard for the land. Everything is completely organic. The property uses solar energy and subterranean water found on the property using a diving rod. The grapes are picked manually, hand selected in the cellar, pressed, vinified and then put into in lightweight bottles. They also make a Vermentino, a 100% Sangiovese, a Sangiovese/Alicante blend, a Vintage Riserva and a grappa, but we’re not talking about those right now. One wine at a time. (They also make beautiful olive oils.)
A blend of Sangiovese (65%) Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) Merlot (15%) Alicante (5%). The wine is fermented in both stainless steel and Slavonian barrels using wild yeasts and delayed malolactic fermentation and is unfiltered. Divine.
The love and care that go into the production of this wine really shows. Ripe fruit and licorice on the nose, the palate is rich with fine, moderate tannins. Two nights ago I had dinner at Oleana in Cambridge and it was the best meal I’ve had in years. In my typical obsessive fashion I went out and bought both Ana Sortun’s books. I cooked up the Lemon Chicken and Turkish Pancakes and some Haroubi cheese/date thing. I was amazed by how well the wine complemented the food. The wine rode the wave of flavors with equal intensity retaining it’s fruit character and finishing long. I can’t wait to have this exact same meal again.
Il Civettaio, Poggio al Commessario $19 / 750ml
As part of the One Wine At A Time project, you get 10% of this wine if you purchase it by Friday, September 28, 2017. Save 15% on a case.
You can discover more about Il Civettaio here.
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